How Black hair care grew Black power - Planet Money Recap

Podcast: Planet Money

Published: 2026-01-07

Duration: 29 minutes

Guests: Olivia Joan Kali

Summary

This episode explores the rise of the Johnson Products Company and its impact on Black culture, middle class, and entrepreneurship through the lens of Black hair care products.

What Happened

The episode begins with the story of Olivia Joan Kali, who shares her grandmother's collection of vintage couture clothing, highlighting the wealth and influence of Black entrepreneurs like her grandparents, Joan and George Johnson. George Johnson founded Johnson Products Company, which created the iconic Afro Sheen, a product that symbolized Black power and identity during the civil rights movement. The Johnsons tapped into the desires of Black Americans for hair products that met their needs, using this understanding to build a multi-million dollar business. By funding initiatives like the television show 'Soul Train' and supporting the civil rights movement, the Johnsons used their wealth to empower and uplift the Black community.

The episode recounts how George Johnson's journey began with selling UltraWave, a hair straightener, to barbershops in Chicago, eventually expanding to other cities. Johnson Products became a symbol of Black entrepreneurship, employing many Black workers and fostering a sense of community. However, as the Black pride movement grew, the demand shifted towards natural hairstyles, leading to the creation of Afro Sheen.

Afro Sheen became a cultural phenomenon, coinciding with the rise of Soul Train, which featured ads for Johnson's products. This strategic marketing move significantly boosted the company's sales and visibility, making it a household name among Black consumers. The episode notes that the Johnsons' decision to go public on the American Stock Exchange, while initially successful, eventually led to challenges as they lost control over the company's direction.

As competition from larger companies like Revlon increased, Johnson Products struggled to keep up, particularly with the emergence of the jheri curl trend. The episode highlights how this shift in the market, coupled with internal challenges, led to the decline of Johnson Products. Despite their eventual sale of the company, the Johnsons' legacy in the Black hair care industry remains significant.

The episode concludes with reflections on the current state of Black hair care, noting that many products are now owned by non-Black companies, which complicates the sense of pride and representation within the industry. The hosts emphasize the importance of acknowledging the contributions of pioneers like the Johnsons in shaping the industry and the ongoing need for Black ownership and representation.

Throughout the episode, the hosts weave together historical context, personal anecdotes, and interviews to provide a comprehensive look at how Black hair care products not only changed the way Black people saw themselves but also how they were perceived in society.

Key Insights

• Johnson Products Company, founded by George Johnson, became a symbol of Black entrepreneurship by creating Afro Sheen, a product that resonated with the Black pride movement and significantly boosted the company's visibility and sales.
• The Johnsons strategically marketed their products through the television show 'Soul Train', which helped Afro Sheen become a cultural phenomenon and a household name among Black consumers.
• Johnson Products was the first African American-owned company to be listed on the American Stock Exchange, but this move eventually led to challenges as the Johnsons lost control over the company's direction.
• Many Black hair care brands are now owned by non-Black companies, which complicates the sense of pride and representation within the industry, highlighting the ongoing need for Black ownership and representation.