The Business of Butterworth's, the Hottest New Restaurant in Washington DC - Odd Lots Recap

Podcast: Odd Lots

Published: 2026-01-02

Duration: 52 minutes

Guests: Bart Hutchins

Summary

Butterworth's in Washington DC has become a culinary hotspot, particularly for the MAGA crowd. Chef-owner Bart Hutchins reveals the challenges and strategies behind running a politically charged restaurant in a city with shifting political landscapes.

What Happened

Butterworth's, a restaurant in Washington DC, has gained notoriety as a popular venue among the MAGA crowd, with political figures like Steve Bannon often spotted dining there. Chef-owner Bart Hutchins discusses the unique challenges of running a restaurant in a politically charged environment, where the clientele can shift with the political tides. This dynamic influences not just the restaurant's reputation but also its operations, including sourcing and menu planning.

Hutchins emphasizes the restaurant's commitment to quality, sourcing ingredients directly from Amish and Mennonite farmers. This approach avoids larger supply chains and supports smaller farms, allowing Butterworth's to offer a menu that changes daily based on available fresh produce and meats. The restaurant's use of beef tallow instead of seed oils for their fries highlights their dedication to unique culinary practices.

The conversation delves into the economic pressures faced by restaurants post-2020, including rising food costs and labor shortages. Hutchins notes that despite these challenges, the focus remains on delivering high-quality dishes, even if it means stretching margins. The competitive labor market, with escalating wages for cooks and dishwashers, adds another layer of complexity to restaurant operations.

Bart Hutchins reflects on the misconceptions created by Anthony Bourdain's 'Kitchen Confidential' about restaurant specials. He explains that Butterworth's avoids having specials altogether, opting instead for a daily-changing menu that ensures freshness and variety. This decision aligns with the restaurant's commitment to quality and avoids the pitfalls described in Bourdain's book.

The restaurant's logistics, such as managing reservations and walk-ins, present additional operational challenges. Hutchins compares these challenges to managing an electricity grid, where peak demands can disrupt service. He explains the importance of a reservation system to smooth out these peaks and ensure a consistent dining experience.

Hutchins also discusses the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic, which led to significant changes in staffing and supply chains. Many skilled workers left the industry during the pandemic, creating a talent shortage that continues to affect restaurant operations. The increased cost of goods has not returned to pre-pandemic levels, further straining operational margins.

The episode touches on the importance of ambiance in restaurants, noting that Butterworth's opts for a more classic atmosphere over an Instagram-friendly one. Hutchins believes that the decor, along with the historic building in which the restaurant is housed, contributes as much to the business's success as the food itself.

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